OPERATION: GET TO THE FARM

Just back in from Ireland yesterday after a wonderful trip out to the Ballymaloe Cookery School and Farm! I took quite a few buses, a plane, a train, and a taxi to get out there, but boy, was it worth it. This culinary school is quite renowned for its use of GM-free, organic, and local ingredients. It's a fully functioning farm, and every ingredient the culinary students learn with is produced on the farm. When the taxi pulled up to the school, the sign said Ballymaloe is open Tuesday through Saturday. This being Monday, my heart sank...but I ran in, gave a dramatic "I came all the way from California!" and they ended up letting me in, free of charge!

The extensive gardens took several hours to wander through -- everything from vegetables and flowers to fruits and herbs. (I realize all this means nothing without pictures; when I get home I'll be able to go back through the old posts and upload their corresponding pictures. For a sense of the place, go to http://www.cookingisfun.ie/) There was a small garden with a pond; the most wonderfully-scented herb garden; a Celtic maze made from shrubs; a small garden house that was covered floor to ceiling with the most beautiful shell mosaic; even the chicken coop was charming, titled Palais de Poulets ("Palace of the Chickens" in French). And the whole time, some rare Irish sunshine to accompany the gorgeous setting.

I met an elderly woman back at reception who opened the Farm Shop for me. I was able to buy a bunch of jams and chutneys made right on the farm. Then she gave me a tour of the cheerful and buzzing kitchens. Students of all ages were rushing around, making pastries and salads and main courses. We walked into the dining room and the woman said, "Well, since we're here and its lunch time, why don't we sit down and eat with the students? After traveling around for so long, it'll probably be nice for you to have a good meal." Well, she hit the nail on the head! Rice cakes and peanut butter from a ziploc bag had lost all their magic for me.

We started the meal with a melon and mint concotion in a lovely syrup. As I spoke with the guy next to me, I found out that he used to live on Catalina Street in Point Loma -- small world, isn't it?! He had come to Ballymaloe to learn to cook, and was in Ireland to stay. Another of the students was an Irishman from Limerick and spoke with me about how cooking, at least in the restaurant industry, has got to be a passionate vocation, or else "you'll go mad." I listened to the story of a 24-year-old chef who had become temporarily paralyzed on the entire left side of his body from the stress of working in a restaurant for six months. Okay, I thought. Maybe I just want to learn to cook for the pleasure of it! And I was told that is definitely reason enough to attend this school -- there are so many different ages and skill levels and career goals across all the students, but they all start at the same level in their studies at Ballymaloe. After the three-month course, you graduate with a pretty prestigious certificate that is highly respected.

Then came the main courses. My friend from Limerick said, "Come on now, guests at Ballymaloe never queue. I'll take ya up to the front to get ya your plate." (It's hard to reproduce the Irish accent in print, but gosh am I in love with it!) What followed was truly one of the best meals of my life -- tarragon chicken, a salad of assorted lettuces with bright orange squash blossoms, mashed potatoes, and the largest and best green beans I've eaten in my life. Everything fresh, grown yards from where I was sitting. I am so lucky to not only have made it out there successfully (the route was a little daunting, hence the OPERATION: GET TO THE FARM), but that I was also able to dine with the students for an amazing lunch. It was a dream-come-true, once-in-a-lifetime event -- thank you so much Juli for telling me about this place! I would love to attend someday (when I win the lottery, that is..tuition is quite pricey, but worth every cent).

The next day I took a train from Cork back to Dublin's City Centre. If you ever go to Ireland, (and are unable to hike it, as that is truly the best way), you must take a train through the countryside. You get to see so much of the land, in huge picture windows. Seeing all that green is good for the soul. Once back in the city, I went to the National Library of Ireland for an exhibit on William Butler Yeats. It was beautifully done, and he was a very interesting character. The collection had tons of his original work, but his handwriting was impossible to read!

Then I moved on to Trinity College to view the book of Kells. The door said the last tour was at 4:45, and drat, it was 4:50. When I asked the guy at the counter he let me fly through the exhibit for free since it was only open for 10 more minutes. The Book is incredible, but I regret not being able to take my time and read all the captions on its history. The way to the exit was through The Long Room, and I was completely unprepared for what I was about to see...a very long room indeed, with a huge tunneled ceiling and very old books all the way up the walls. At each endcap was a marble bust of one of the great thinkers: Plato, Socrates, Newton, all the way down the huge room. A remarkable, inspiring place. Another Irish landmark that you would be sorry to miss!

Although it meant sacrificing the opportunity for visiting other countries, I am thrilled that I got to go back to Ireland. Each day I was there I just kept thinking, you are a very lucky girl -- don't forget this. What a special thing to be able to visit a place so soon after being there the first time.

Slainte!
(Cheers! in Irish-Gaelic)

Brie

[P.S. - I am realizing that Bonjour, Adventure -- despite its French-sounding title -- has turned into more of me going on at length about Ireland than anything else. Has she been in France at all?, you say. Yes, and I am going to write more on France very soon. Kate and I are off to Paris tonight for the next several days and I will have lots to tell when I get back. Stay tuned!]